Bikes discussion thread
What's the most redpilled bike for escaping a city at an unexpected time with a backpack full of supplies, and getting to the wilderness?
Bikes don't require fuel like cars do, plus off-road bikes can get deeper into forests than cars can. Most bikes don't have license plates, too. And they don't require licenses.
/ub/ - Überhengst
Becoming better
>>2437
Not knowing too much about bikes I think the most important aspect will be serviceability. You don't want a high end track bike that needs it's gears to be fine-tuned to even work. Besides that I think any bike will do wonders. Getting and off-road bike to get deeper into the forest will probably sacrifice the option of having storage space on the bike. And when you hit a mire or heavy thicket a good backpack is perhaps better choice than a bike to move goods. I haven't biked much offroad myself, but unless there is a trail I think it can quickly become a hassle.
>tl;dr; I think you can get a long way by getting an simple basic bike. And if you have the tools to fix it, it will last you a long time.
Not knowing too much about bikes I think the most important aspect will be serviceability. You don't want a high end track bike that needs it's gears to be fine-tuned to even work. Besides that I think any bike will do wonders. Getting and off-road bike to get deeper into the forest will probably sacrifice the option of having storage space on the bike. And when you hit a mire or heavy thicket a good backpack is perhaps better choice than a bike to move goods. I haven't biked much offroad myself, but unless there is a trail I think it can quickly become a hassle.
>tl;dr; I think you can get a long way by getting an simple basic bike. And if you have the tools to fix it, it will last you a long time.
I thought this thread would get more traffic.
Is it true that hardcore cyclists fuck their hearts up by cycling too hard?
Is it true that hardcore cyclists fuck their hearts up by cycling too hard?
Glad your taking an interest in bikes, Nigel.
Seasoned bikefag with almost 2 decades experience.
One of the major things on bikes are torque vs speed. Speeds self explanatory. Torque is vital for accelerating, overcoming inertia, getting up hills & over rough terrain.
Wheels:
Bigger wheels give more speed, less torque. Bigger wheels may also be more stable on rough terrain. My 26 inchers are fairly versatile. Bmx's with there small wheels are great for going up steep ramps but come up short when you need speed.
Chain ring (front cogs connected to your cranks):
The larger this is, the more speed & less torque you have
If you have good multi speed sprocket set on the rear, a single small 36 Tooth will give you all the speed you need unless you really need to gun down a hill over 20mph.
Plus keeping it single speed means one less mechanical thing to brake down.
Gears (On the rear wheel):
Most of my experience is with a 9 gear sprocket set. With the chain ring I got, covers all my torque & speed needs.
Tyres:
Thicker is more stable on rough services but provides more drag. 2.1 inch tyres can take both types of innertube size available making it easy to supply. Good intermediate size to use while deciding if you need less drag or more offroad capability. I'd also recommend the tire has a nobbly service unless you only ever ride on perfectly maintained tarmac
You don't need to go overboard with tyre pressure, you'll taste every last bump on the path with your butt & it'll wear your tyres out quickly. 15 PSI/ 1 Bar seems hunky dory for 2.1 & 2.4 inches.
Innertubes:
Slime innertubes are overpriced and under performing. Better than having nothing but expect to repair once in while. Most times though you can pull thorns out and reinflate and the slime will actually do it's job. You will also need a classic vulcanised rubber repair kit for these, the green spooge will spoil any instant patches.
Other self healing innertubes (like bikehut) use a different white goop. They perform great up until you get a puncture and release all there spooge while sealing the innertube interals from reinflation. Carry a spair dry inner tube if you use these. Still last time 2 times I did replace these, I must have picked 10+ thorns out both times, beats Slime(tm)s performance by a country mile.
Protective tape:
Finicky. Install it wrong & it'll slice you inner tube. Still testing a reinstall I did this week, will update with results next week.
Breaks:
A fully functioning set of hydraulic disc breaks will only set you back ~£45. Unparalleled breaking force & they last a fair while before they need to be bled. Bleeding kind of a pain in the butt tho'.
Been ages since I've had any kind of mechanical break so I can't comment on them. I did borrow & use a badly maintained bike with rim breaks not to long ago & that thing was a crash waiting to happen
Storage:
Got a decent rack & pannier combo for about £35. Great for helping out with shopping. Will put more pressure on back wheel tho'
No experience with the baskets that go on the front. Thinking of getting one but coulden't find a fixed one (Don't want chavs nicking it).
Lock:
YOU WILL REGRET COMPROMISES MADE ON THIS!
Dlocks are easy to store you on your bike and offer good protection. Would recommend spending at least £35 & getting a good brand like Abus or Magnum. Also periodically spray periodically with
wd40 and replace immediately if it's on the fritz (that's a mistake I made & cost me £120 for a locksmith. Pain's a good teacher).
If you need more flexibility, get a thick ass chain with a frabric cover (avoid paint work damage) + a good lock.
Avoid like the plague combination locks (unsecure), locks with threaded cables (cut really easy) & cheap dlocks (they can be just be smashed open).
That's all the advice I can think of ATM. I hope that helps.
Seasoned bikefag with almost 2 decades experience.
One of the major things on bikes are torque vs speed. Speeds self explanatory. Torque is vital for accelerating, overcoming inertia, getting up hills & over rough terrain.
Wheels:
Bigger wheels give more speed, less torque. Bigger wheels may also be more stable on rough terrain. My 26 inchers are fairly versatile. Bmx's with there small wheels are great for going up steep ramps but come up short when you need speed.
Chain ring (front cogs connected to your cranks):
The larger this is, the more speed & less torque you have
If you have good multi speed sprocket set on the rear, a single small 36 Tooth will give you all the speed you need unless you really need to gun down a hill over 20mph.
Plus keeping it single speed means one less mechanical thing to brake down.
Gears (On the rear wheel):
Most of my experience is with a 9 gear sprocket set. With the chain ring I got, covers all my torque & speed needs.
Tyres:
Thicker is more stable on rough services but provides more drag. 2.1 inch tyres can take both types of innertube size available making it easy to supply. Good intermediate size to use while deciding if you need less drag or more offroad capability. I'd also recommend the tire has a nobbly service unless you only ever ride on perfectly maintained tarmac
You don't need to go overboard with tyre pressure, you'll taste every last bump on the path with your butt & it'll wear your tyres out quickly. 15 PSI/ 1 Bar seems hunky dory for 2.1 & 2.4 inches.
Innertubes:
Slime innertubes are overpriced and under performing. Better than having nothing but expect to repair once in while. Most times though you can pull thorns out and reinflate and the slime will actually do it's job. You will also need a classic vulcanised rubber repair kit for these, the green spooge will spoil any instant patches.
Other self healing innertubes (like bikehut) use a different white goop. They perform great up until you get a puncture and release all there spooge while sealing the innertube interals from reinflation. Carry a spair dry inner tube if you use these. Still last time 2 times I did replace these, I must have picked 10+ thorns out both times, beats Slime(tm)s performance by a country mile.
Protective tape:
Finicky. Install it wrong & it'll slice you inner tube. Still testing a reinstall I did this week, will update with results next week.
Breaks:
A fully functioning set of hydraulic disc breaks will only set you back ~£45. Unparalleled breaking force & they last a fair while before they need to be bled. Bleeding kind of a pain in the butt tho'.
Been ages since I've had any kind of mechanical break so I can't comment on them. I did borrow & use a badly maintained bike with rim breaks not to long ago & that thing was a crash waiting to happen
Storage:
Got a decent rack & pannier combo for about £35. Great for helping out with shopping. Will put more pressure on back wheel tho'
No experience with the baskets that go on the front. Thinking of getting one but coulden't find a fixed one (Don't want chavs nicking it).
Lock:
YOU WILL REGRET COMPROMISES MADE ON THIS!
Dlocks are easy to store you on your bike and offer good protection. Would recommend spending at least £35 & getting a good brand like Abus or Magnum. Also periodically spray periodically with
wd40 and replace immediately if it's on the fritz (that's a mistake I made & cost me £120 for a locksmith. Pain's a good teacher).
If you need more flexibility, get a thick ass chain with a frabric cover (avoid paint work damage) + a good lock.
Avoid like the plague combination locks (unsecure), locks with threaded cables (cut really easy) & cheap dlocks (they can be just be smashed open).
That's all the advice I can think of ATM. I hope that helps.
File (): 504B1472940A76FFAF2CC06233F3A452-232601.png (227.1 KB, 497x477, OP's bike.png)
Heres' a pic of my bike seat too. Highly recommended.
File (): DB37927607CC2877FA236D988E62BA28-317865.jpg (310.4 KB, 896x1445, 8e0454_396835.jpg)
>>2461
Thank you!
Speaking of bike locks I saw a channel called The Lockpicking Lawyer. A guy easily lockpicks locks and safes that are supposed to be great, but aren't.
Sometimes he uses proper tools, and sometimes he uses toys and coke cans and wacky bullshit like that.
He really likes beating bike locks and anything Amazon labels with Amazon's Choice. Not that I use amazon to check. Everything could have that label for all I know, I will never fund the enemy.
>>2462
Dude stop showing me your gay bike
If you want to do sexual comedy right you need to git gud. Clever observations and sex puns when you don't draw attention to them or make people expect them.
Look at how the other guy calls the bike slime "spooge". It's a semen joke and it's fucking hilarious.
If his whole post had a dick joke every two lines it would lose its impact. Like those "Fuck yeah, this is a Ryhorn, the fucking best pokemon!" memes.
It would be funnier if you said "Hey OP, what do you think of this bike?" Because I would expect to see a serious bike and the gay bike would surprise me. Instead you said "this is your bike" and I expected a girly pink thing but this is gay too.
Thank you!
Speaking of bike locks I saw a channel called The Lockpicking Lawyer. A guy easily lockpicks locks and safes that are supposed to be great, but aren't.
Sometimes he uses proper tools, and sometimes he uses toys and coke cans and wacky bullshit like that.
He really likes beating bike locks and anything Amazon labels with Amazon's Choice. Not that I use amazon to check. Everything could have that label for all I know, I will never fund the enemy.
>>2462
Dude stop showing me your gay bike
If you want to do sexual comedy right you need to git gud. Clever observations and sex puns when you don't draw attention to them or make people expect them.
Look at how the other guy calls the bike slime "spooge". It's a semen joke and it's fucking hilarious.
If his whole post had a dick joke every two lines it would lose its impact. Like those "Fuck yeah, this is a Ryhorn, the fucking best pokemon!" memes.
It would be funnier if you said "Hey OP, what do you think of this bike?" Because I would expect to see a serious bike and the gay bike would surprise me. Instead you said "this is your bike" and I expected a girly pink thing but this is gay too.
>>2467
Bruh I'm not mad, your jokes are fine
Just wanted to see what would happen if I said that to change things up.
Bruh I'm not mad, your jokes are fine
Just wanted to see what would happen if I said that to change things up.
Is it worth getting a taxi to a dedicated Cycling Store or will ordering the bike online do?
File (): 9407B7018235410EB96FD181A3297857-66977.jpg (65.4 KB, 540x639, funny-riding-bicycle-street-no-wheel1.jpg)
File (): 4FF256F87A1B13767691E31AE4C5AF5A-148172.png (144.7 KB, 850x500, 850px-Bicycle_diagram-en.svg.png)
Well I'm pleased toi report after 2 weeks of commuting & 3 big hauls, my back wheel is doing A-ok so far.
Previously tried secure the protective tape with blutac & covering it with sellotape. Seemed adequate for the front but useless on my back (thinner tyre, takes more wheight).
Tried doing what this video suggests: https://youtu.be/smI_s1To0eA?list=PLTkSCcdfGIvg_pjkNzJOnI2EnWfRAaBYU
Used some good quality duct tape (T-rex) Covered the ends with a layer of duct tape, secured with duct tape going across ervery 1/8 of the tyre & near both ends & finally putting some along where they both overlap.
It's so nice to go an entire week without worrying & fucking around with that infernal bit of hell rubber.
>>2466
Yeah, those lockpicking guys are pretty damn cool but they're also guys with a lot of study, experience & brains who have more fruitful things to do than nick bikes. It's akin to worrying about a martial artist jumping out the bushes & gutting you with a tea spoon.
Now your typical chav can rap his head around things like hammers & cable cutters (and maybe freeze spray). But decent d-lock or a chain is all but impervious to them unless they want to use some really conspicuous tools like hack saws or angle grinders.
>>2477
I'd normally recommend visiting first just to take wee gander of the bike first but with this corvid hoax that's going to be a bit more of a pain in the ass. If you order online & the tech-specs seem to add up, chances are you will get something adequate enough for the time being.
Previously tried secure the protective tape with blutac & covering it with sellotape. Seemed adequate for the front but useless on my back (thinner tyre, takes more wheight).
Tried doing what this video suggests: https://youtu.be/smI_s1To0eA?list=PLTkSCcdfGIvg_pjkNzJOnI2EnWfRAaBYU
Used some good quality duct tape (T-rex) Covered the ends with a layer of duct tape, secured with duct tape going across ervery 1/8 of the tyre & near both ends & finally putting some along where they both overlap.
It's so nice to go an entire week without worrying & fucking around with that infernal bit of hell rubber.
>>2466
Yeah, those lockpicking guys are pretty damn cool but they're also guys with a lot of study, experience & brains who have more fruitful things to do than nick bikes. It's akin to worrying about a martial artist jumping out the bushes & gutting you with a tea spoon.
Now your typical chav can rap his head around things like hammers & cable cutters (and maybe freeze spray). But decent d-lock or a chain is all but impervious to them unless they want to use some really conspicuous tools like hack saws or angle grinders.
>>2477
I'd normally recommend visiting first just to take wee gander of the bike first but with this corvid hoax that's going to be a bit more of a pain in the ass. If you order online & the tech-specs seem to add up, chances are you will get something adequate enough for the time being.
>>2462
I have this one too, I can recommend it. It's called a "safety bike" because it holds you in place while you ride. They are very popular in Sweden. I don't advise using the lubricant that comes with it though, because you will slip and fall off right in the middle of your bike ride, and that is exactly what the Jews want.
I have this one too, I can recommend it. It's called a "safety bike" because it holds you in place while you ride. They are very popular in Sweden. I don't advise using the lubricant that comes with it though, because you will slip and fall off right in the middle of your bike ride, and that is exactly what the Jews want.